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Three years ago, the Sacramento Convention and Visitors Bureau established a program to promote the city as “America’s Farm to Fork Capital.” Pushing agriculture and restaurants may not be as important as being the legislative home of the sixth- largest economy in the world, but it’s certainly sexier.

In addition, the marketing staff can make a strong case for its importance as an agricultural powerhouse for such distinctions as growing 80 percent of the world’s almonds and domestic caviar, and for its production of high-quality rice that fills the steamers in some of Japan’s best sushi restaurants.

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A little more than a year ago, Kelly Mc Cown, formerly of Goose & Gander in St. Mc Cown was at one time the chef of Ella, so it was like a homecoming, even though he was raised in the Bay Area.

Thiemann credits Mc Cown with shaking up the dining scene by creating a chefs’ collective. There’s all these guys here that are doing all these things, and people should know about it.” As an indicator of where the culinary scene is headed, he points to the fact that the food at the Golden 1 Center (the Sacramento Kings’ arena) scheduled to open in October will be sustainably sourced.

“I saw there were a handful of guys doing cool things, but no one was coming together,” Mc Cown said. He also hosted collective dinners and used his contacts to bring in nationally prominent chefs to get Sacramento more exposure. Mc Cown is one of the participants in September’s Farm-to-Fork Celebration, a month of farm tours, wine tastings, street festivals and restaurant events. 24 culminates in a dinner the next evening for nearly 800 people who will sit at one long table stretching over the landmark Tower Bridge.

“I feel that Sacramento has a cool soul about it,” says Michael Thiemann, who moved back to his hometown in 2013 to open Empress Tavern after cooking around the world and spending four years as Tyler Florence’s corporate chef working at Wayfare Tavern and other projects. It’s more a town than a city, and it’s surrounded by farms.” But does that really translate to the plate?

I decided to find out, researching and visiting 17 of the city’s top restaurants.

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